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Diamonds
No 2 diamonds are the exact same!
Diamonds are generally graded by 3 different experts. The blemishes and inclusions within the diamond are identical; however, the opinions of the experts in the grade from the diamond vary slightly.
The 4 C’s
Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers
Carat Weight
A unit of weight (CT) utilized to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, about the weight of the paper clip. Carat is different from Karat; the first is for that weight of a diamond, the other for the purity of gold.
A greater carat means a rarer and bigger size diamond. The expenses of diamonds vary by size; the larger the carat the higher the cost per Carat will likely be. The prices of diamonds greatly increase in the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight will not be an excellent representation of any diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size through the area on top because this is how we view a diamond after it is in their setting.
Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have very different prices based on the other 4 C’s of any diamond, Clarity and Color and Cut.
The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds which were utilized to balance scales.
A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For example, a diamond weighing .Carats will likely be described as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, including some time o’ five carats to get a 1.05 CT diamond.
Deciding on the best Carat weight depends upon many different factors. A key point is the size of “her” hand. The lesser “her” finger is, the larger the diamond looks.
You will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well, because larger diamonds are rarer. Under one in one million rough stones mined are big enough to make a finished 1 carat diamond.
Two diamonds of the identical shape and carat weight may still appear different in dimensions depending on the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond includes a greater proportion of their total weight “hidden” inside the depth, producing a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond. These differences are usually small, but noticeable. A highly cut diamond may even have a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, yet still have a larger diameter, making it appear larger in proportions.
Cutter of rough diamond must balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to keep up the maximum amount of carat weight from your rough stone as possible). Lots of people are willing to pay more for larger diamonds which are fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. there are sometimes pressure in the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is essential due to this.
Two diamonds of equal carat weight might also appear totally different in dimensions in accordance with the model of the diamond. For instance, a 1 carat marquise has a tendency to appear bigger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each diamond, the chart shows these:
Approximate size. The diamond images shown really are a very close approximation of the actual scale of a 1 carat excellent cut for each shape. Visually, the more time shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) have a tendency to appear larger towards the eye compared to round and square shapes.
Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements correspond to the design shown above, and are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.
Crown Area - The complete area (mm2). The region gives the true size of the diamond face up (since it would appear when set in a ring). For instance, whilst the oval diamond image appears greater than the round image, the specific surface is identical for that two shapes, meaning the real difference in proportions is one of perception, not reality. In contrast, the oval not only appears bigger than the princess cut, it actually features a larger surface (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the main difference will not be simply an illusion created by the elongated shape.
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Clarity
Clarity refers to the size and amount from the flaws (blemishes and inclusions) inside a diamond. Clarity is thought to get the least effect on a diamond’s appearance from the 4 C’s.
Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades compared to those with additional imperfections.
And because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws, diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme heat and pressure deep within the earth. These flaws are known as “blemishes and “inclusions”.” Inclusion - found in the diamond. Inclusions includecracks and bubbles, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-found on the surface of the diamond.
Inclusions
Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond by interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant. Some inclusions could affect the potency of a diamond and in some cases make it much more likely the diamond will shatter.
Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that show up in diamonds. They may be found by themselves or even in clusters along with a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions develop a hazy spot in the diamond known as a cloud.
Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken away coming from a diamond employing a laser. They leave a vapor like trail through the surface of the diamond up to the point where the inclusion was in the diamond. These are an unnatural inclusion.
Feathers: Cracks inside the diamond that resembles the shape of any feather. If a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond, the diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows.
Cleavage: A straight crack within the diamond with no feathering. A cleavage crack can split the diamond apart if it is hit from the correct angle.
Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear across the girdle (Where top/crown and bottom/pavilion from the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.
Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines in a diamond that takes place by irregular crystallization.
Blemishes
There are many blemishes that barely have any effect on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur each time a diamond is polished and cut, while it is being worn, or they may be an organic portion of the diamond.
Scratch: An excellent surface line that can be removed by polishing.
Abrasion: Develops when diamonds rub against one another from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A number of nicks around the edges of the facet. Causes the facet to look fuzzy.
Pit: Occur when a pinpoint inclusion
Diamond Plot
What fingerprints are going to each and every unique person, a diamond plot is to a diamond. The diamond plot is exactly what jewelers use to find out how many blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on the diamond plot the greater quality the diamond is. If you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view, the diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as. All of the inclusions and blemishes which you may or may not be able to see with the naked eye is shown around the diamond plot. When you compare the markings around the diamond plot towards the diamond, some of the markings will be impossible to see unless seen through the side angle.
Diamond Clarity Chart
FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Very rare.
IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Unusual.
VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions can not be seen with the human eye and therefore are challenging to see even with 10x magnification.
VVS1 - Inclusions are often seen from your pavilion (bottom) from the diamond.
VVS2 - Inclusions are often seen through the crown (top) of the diamond.
VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Blemishes and Inclusions are visible with 10x magnification but just about impossible to detect with the naked eye.
SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and could be observed using the human eye.
SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions which can be tough to see with all the naked eye
SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye if a person knows what they are looking for.
I1- Included: Inclusions are visible to the human eye
I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions that are so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.
Color
The color of any diamond fails to change with time. The scale to grade a diamond’s insufficient color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further on the scale you decide to go, the greater yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher inside the range tend to be more valuable. The yellowish tint is created from the actual existence of nitrogen.
Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without any hue or color
Hardly any diamond is ideal
Chemical impurities affect color
The intensity and hue may either eliminate or add value
Can come in variety of colors, according to structural defects, which cause coloration
Diamonds that are intenseyellow and brown, or any other color are considered fancy color diamonds
GIA color grading
D- colorless. Unusual.
E,F -colorless. Traces of color may be detected. F features a very faint yellowish tint with it that may just be seen once the diamond is viewed facedown.
G,H,I- near colorless. If compared with a higher quality diamond, one can see the difference.
N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow
S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow
Cut
diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness created by the mixture of all the white light reflections from the surface and also the within a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light into the colours from the visible spectrum, considered as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, whenever a diamond or light source is moved). In other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even if it has the perfect colour and clarity.
The way a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is exactly what allows for the maximum amount of light to become returned out of the the surface of the diamond. A highly cut diamond will show up larger due to the light which is being reflected out of its top. Each time a diamond is poorly cut, its weight may be based in the bottom making the diamond seem smaller compared to exactly what the Carat weight suggests.
Diamond Shapes
Round: Most popular of all shapes. It’s made to produce the most sparkle. It will be the most researched and analyzed cut. This is a timeless cut. About 75% of all diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which suggests they may have 58 facets. Will cost more per carat than fancy shapes for just two reasons: demand is high and contains a low yield. A lot of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for instance; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) could cost 25-35% greater than a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: Research from the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was introduced. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to increase brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.
Princess Cut: Has excellent brilliance and sparkle. This is a more modern cut, created inside the 1960s. They normally cost less simply because they enable a larger yield through the rough cut. They tend to look smaller when viewed through the top when compared with other shapes with the exact same carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. From all fancy cuts, it’s most favored, specifically for engagement rings. Sensible choice for flexibility in working with almost any ring style, just like the round cut. Slightly lower price per carat than round cuts. As a result of four sided shape, similar to a pyramid, from the princess cut, is similar to 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to be formed from your same rough stone with little from the rough stone being wasted. Because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size, though crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds. Some are rectangular, though traditionally square. More rectangular, lower price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will show up square to human eye. If set with other diamonds, length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone. Should be set with prongs therefore the four corners are protected. Probably to chip in the corners. Flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were once close to the outer edge of the rough stone. Once the stone is defined, the corners will likely be protected by the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones using a table % in excess of depth %.
Oval: It had been created in the 1960s. It is an elliptical version in the round cut. When viewed from the top, it has a tendency to look larger than other cuts. Developed by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar fire and brilliance. Elongated shape creates an illusion of any larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear slimmer and long. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more desirable when diamond is by using side stones. Usually have much more of a bowtie.
Marquise: The ends are pointed, although similar to the oval shape. When viewed through the top, it is going to look greater than virtually all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly had a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface area. Maximizes the perceived scale of a diamond. The elongated shape definitely makes the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is vital. Two end points need to align with each other, as well as the left and right sides should mirror one another. Slight misalignment may cause an off kilter try looking in the setting. Excellent or great symmetry is strongly recommended. It ought to be set using the prongs protecting the 2 points. Just like the princess cut, the points were once nearest the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws are more inclined to be located there. The prongs which cover the points is likely to make the flaws invisible. Points are also prone to chipping.
Pear Shaped: It is pointed at one round and end on the other. It is also known as a teardrop cut, because of its resemblance to a teardrop. This kind of cut is generally used in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Mixture of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Must have excellent or great symmetry. Pont should align with apex of rounded end. wings and Shoulder, the upper and lower curves on both sides in the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. Rounded top need to look just like a semi circle. It really should not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in an attempt to add weight, cutters may give diamond added girth near the point or top. It gives the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It needs to be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It also need to be impacted by the long run setting. A narrow stone is perfect for dangling earings, and a wider shaped stone is way better to get a solitaire ring. Contains a amount of bowtie. Ought to be set with prong on the point., the purpose was once closest to the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs that cover the points is likely to make the flaws invisible. Point is additionally very likely to chipping.
Cushion Cut: also referred to as the pillow cut. It is in the model of a square or rectangle. Additionally it is called the old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has been in existence for about 200 years. It had been the de facto diamond shape up until the early twentieth century. It is prized by antique diamond dealers due to the return or light in a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it posseses an enlarged culet. Within the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. There has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut, because of him. Standards for this cut vary greater than other shapes and personal taste will mainly become the deciding factor which stone to choose. Less brilliant that round cuts, but have more fire. They have three pavilion facet patterns. GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut, though ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered. They have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is really a length to width ration of 1.00. most popular is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.
Emerald Cut: It features a recagular shape with all the edges cut to have steps, which act like mirrors. The mirrors are employed to show the clarity of the diamond. Produced by the step cuts of pavilion along with its large, open table. Create a hall of mirrors effect, instead of the sparkle of a brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut an elegant appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are easier to see in this cut. If prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut, classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5.. It’s defined as a square cut emerald by GIA.
Asscher Cut: It is more octagonal, though it is similar to the emerald cut. It’s corners and steps are deeper and larger. First produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, during the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but produced a comeback around 2002, because of the modifications that increased brilliance. Similar to square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, a greater crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will appear to get concentric squares as you look through the table. Because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal, even though has cropped corners. When mounted in a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square to the naked eye.
Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot crown and pavilion. It generates a remarkable, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between princess and cushion cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or maybe more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more prone to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 will appear square to naked eye. Rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut, but want the brilliance of a round stone. It has cropped corners, though looks very similar to princess cut. Once set, they search nearly identical because of prongs within the corners.
Heart Shaped: in the shape of a heart. Modified brilliant cut. Unique and unmistakable symbol of affection. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is vital. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which can be in between the two lobes, needs to be sharp and distinct. The wings, because they curve to the stage, should have got a slight rounded shape. Ones lower than .50 carats will not be the ideal choice, becuas it’s more difficult to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is placed in the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline in the shape after it’s set. The prongs should be placed one on each lobe, then one in the point. Come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow, but it should be chosen based off of personal preference. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants needs to be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.
Depth %: describes distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed through the side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth from the width in the diamond. the reduced the depth %, the larger a diamond of any certain carat will show up.
table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.
diamond girdle: outer side of diamond where crown meets pavillion. May be faceted- number of tiny polished sides taht go around the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes round the diamond, this sort of girdle is currently uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. How the girdle is will not impact the price or appearance in the diamond. it is actually described by width. the width varies at different points from the diamond. and is identified as a range, from thinnest for the thickest point. can impact diamond in three ways: The thickness in the girdle affects the relative position from the surrounding facets, and thus can impact cut. A diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width, because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade.
A thicker girdle will add weight to your diamond, thereby increasing its cost. Since a thick girdle adds depth to your diamond however, not width, a thick girdled diamond is not going to appear any larger when viewed through the top (e.g. when placed in some jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. Real, even though the effect on carat price and weight is minimal.
An Incredibly Thin girdle is more vunerable to chipping, and for that reason ought to be avoided for diamonds that should be set in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less in contact with rough contact and are therefore less vunerable to chipping round the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and incredibly Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, because this shape already has sharp corners prone to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.
Diamond culet: small area at the bottom from the pavilliion. it could be pointed or perhaps a really small facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet scale of Medium or smaller will likely be invisible to the naked eye, and possess no negative effect on a diamond’s appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.
polish: degree of smoothness of each component of a diamond; Each time a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects may be produced by the polishing wheel because it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. If diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer, depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance.. Poor grade ought to be avoided for many diamonds.
Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets intersect and align. may include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending it off on the wrong angles, which reduces the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a minor decrease in symmetry as a way of preventing a defect contained in the rough stone from being retained included in the finished diamond. it’s important in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and higher. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. includes a significant effect on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish could be priced 10%-15% higher than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more concerning consumer’s perceived worth of “excellent” grades, compared to the actual influence on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes
Cut describes diamondsproportions and symmetry, and polish, not it’s shape.
When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off of the surface (as glare). From the 80% that enters, a percentage will escape through the foot of the diamond (where observer cannot appreciate it). A properly proportioned diamond may have each facet properly placed and angled so as to maximize the volume of light that reflects back out from the crown (top) of the diamond, to the eye from the observer. This reflected light is perceived as scintillation, brilliance and fire.
Watch out for: Inclusion is visible to the naked eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds without a GIA certification
Comparison between Carat Surface and weight Area
When reviewing any diamond, it is important to remember that an increase in diameter could have a bigger boost in the crown surface which results in a perceived boost in overall size.
Two diamonds with similar carat and shape size may be perceived as having different sizes because of the cut dimensions. A diamond using a deep cut has much more of it’s weight “hidden” within the depth, which results in a reduced diameter compared to a well cut diamond.
A well cut diamond that includes a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet includes a larger diameter can look larger in dimensions.
A diamonds cut and carat figure out how big the stone can look. A properly cut diamond that is certainly lighter than a poorly cut diamond will look like bigger diamond which is more beautiful than the heavier one.
A carat is dependant on weight. It does not reflect that actual scale of a diamond. It ought to be considered using the diameter in millimeters as well as its cut grade.
The body weight of the poorly cut diamond can be hidden in the lower diamond. That can make the diamond appear smaller in dimensions.
Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds
Colored diamonds are very rare and expensive. To offer the general public using the desired colored diamonds, jewelers put the diamond via a procedure for high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both radiation treatments are complete and the heating process.
When repairing diamonds, the jeweler must re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This could cause the colour of the diamond to change as the process to add color to your diamond is not full proof.
When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.
When cutting an expensive diamond, instead of cutting the diamond to maximize sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the color
Every colored diamond continues to be irradiated because it really has been subjected to natural radiation.
Red-
Blue- color caused by presence of boron
Yellow- color brought on by presence of nitrogen
Green- color brought on by natural radiation
Diamond Terms
Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone
Girdle - In which the top/bottom and crown/pavilion of a diamond meet. The region that is certainly usually grasped by prongs when picking up a diamond.
Crown - The best area of the diamond which is above the girdle
Pavilion - The base portion of the diamond that is below the girdle.
Inclusions - Flaws found within a diamond.
Blemishes - Flaws located on the surface of any diamond.
Diamond Fun Facts:
The birthstone from the month of April is actually a diamond
The hardest natural substance on Earth is a diamond
Diamonds are colorless while in their pure state
The most common colors of any diamond is brown and yellow
The rarest colors of any diamond are red and blue
1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces
India is where diamonds were first discovered
A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C
A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C
In ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutcourage and strength, and invincibility
The word diamond is derived from the Greek word “adamas” which suggests unbreakable
The Greeks and Romans believed diamonds were the tears of the gods and splinters of fallen stars
Diamonds are only able to be scratched by other diamonds
250 a lot of ore has to be mined and processed to generate a single one carat diamond
Diamonds are the most effective known, natural, thermal/heat conductor
Royal Palm Beach diamond buyers