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Diamonds
No 2 diamonds are exactly the same!
Diamonds are usually graded by 3 different experts. The inclusions and blemishes inside the diamond are the same; however, the opinions of the experts around the grade in the diamond vary slightly.
The 4 C’s
Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers
Carat Weight
A unit of weight (CT) used to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, regarding the weight of the paper clip. Carat differs from Karat; the initial one is for the weight of any diamond, one other to the purity of gold.
A higher carat means a rarer and bigger size diamond. The expense of diamonds vary by size; the higher the carat the higher the cost per Carat is going to be. The costs of diamonds greatly increase in the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not a good representation of the diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size through the surface on the top since this is how we view a diamond when it is in the setting.
Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat may have very different prices based on the other 4 C’s of any diamond, Color and Clarity and Cut.
The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds which were used to balance scales.
A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For instance, a diamond weighing .Carats is going to be described as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, such as some time o’ five carats for a 1.05 CT diamond.
Choosing the right Carat weight depends on many different factors. An important factor is the size of “her” hand. The smaller “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.
You will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well, because larger diamonds are rarer. Less than one out of 1 million rough stones mined are big enough to produce a finished 1 carat diamond.
Two diamonds the exact same carat and shape weight may still appear different in size in accordance with the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond features a greater proportion of their total weight “hidden” inside the depth, causing a smaller diameter than a well cut diamond. These differences are usually small, but noticeable. A properly cut diamond may also have a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, yet still have a larger diameter, making it appear larger in size.
Cutter of rough diamond must balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to keep as much carat weight from your rough stone as is possible). Lots of people are prepared to pay more for larger diamonds which can be fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. you can find occasionally pressure in the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is important due to this.
Two diamonds of equal carat weight might also appear very different in proportions depending on the form of the diamond. As an example, a 1 carat marquise has a tendency to appear bigger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each and every diamond, the chart shows the subsequent:
Approximate size. The diamond images shown are a very close approximation of the actual size of a 1 carat excellent cut for every shape. Visually, the more shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) often appear larger for the eye than the round and square shapes.
Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements correspond to the shape shown above, and are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.
Crown Area - The total area (mm2). The region provides the true dimensions of the diamond face up (because it would appear when placed in a ring). As an example, while the oval diamond image appears bigger than the round image, the specific surface is identical for that two shapes, meaning the real difference in proportions is one of perception, not reality. In comparison, the oval not just appears larger than the princess cut, it actually includes a larger area (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the main difference is not really simply an illusion developed by the elongated shape.
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Clarity
Clarity refers back to the amount and size of the flaws (inclusions and blemishes) in a diamond. Clarity is assumed to get the least influence on a diamond’s appearance from your 4 C’s.
Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades than those with more imperfections.
Diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth, and because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws. These flaws are classified as “blemishes and “inclusions”.” Inclusion - found inside the diamond. Inclusions includebubbles and cracks, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-found on the surface of the diamond.
Inclusions
By interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant, Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond. Some inclusions could affect the effectiveness of a diamond and in many cases make it more likely the diamond will shatter.
Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that appear in diamonds. They could be discovered by themselves or even in clusters as well as a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions develop a hazy spot within the diamond known as a cloud.
Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken away from a diamond employing a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from your top of the diamond up to the stage in which the inclusion was in the diamond. They are an unnatural inclusion.
Feathers: Cracks inside the diamond that resembles the form of any feather. If a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond, the diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows.
Cleavage: A straight crack within the diamond without any feathering. A cleavage crack can split the diamond apart if it is hit from the correct angle.
Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear around the girdle (In which the top/bottom and crown/pavilion from the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.
Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines inside a diamond that occurs by irregular crystallization.
Blemishes
There are many blemishes that barely have any effect on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur when a diamond is cut and polished, while it is being worn, or they are an organic part of the diamond.
Scratch: A great surface line which can be removed by polishing.
Abrasion: Takes place when diamonds rub against each other from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A number of nicks around the edges in the facet. Causes the facet to look fuzzy.
Pit: Occur whenever a pinpoint inclusion
Diamond Plot
What fingerprints are to each and every unique person, a diamond plot would be to a diamond. The diamond plot is what jewelers use to view the amount of blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on the diamond plot the higher quality the diamond is. The diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as if you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view. All the blemishes and inclusions that you simply may or may not be able to see using the naked eye is shown on the diamond plot. When you compare the markings on the diamond plot towards the diamond, some of the markings is going to be impossible to view unless seen through the side angle.
Diamond Clarity Chart
FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Unusual.
IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Rare.
VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions cannot be seen with all the human eye alone and are difficult to see despite 10x magnification.
VVS1 - Inclusions are generally seen from your pavilion (bottom) of the diamond.
VVS2 - Inclusions are usually seen from the crown (top) from the diamond.
VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Inclusions and Blemishes are visible with 10x magnification but nearly impossible to detect using the naked eye.
SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and could be seen with all the human eye alone.
SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions which can be difficult to see with the human eye
If a person knows what they are looking for, SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.
I1- Included: Inclusions are visible for the human eye alone
I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions which are so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.
Color
The color of the diamond does NOT change with time. The scale to grade a diamond’s absence of color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further along the scale you choose to go, the more yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher in the range are definitely more valuable. The yellowish tint is formed from the existence of nitrogen.
Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without any hue or color
Almost no diamond is ideal
Chemical impurities affect color
The hue and intensity either can remove or add value
Are available in number of colors, based on structural defects, which cause coloration
Diamonds that are intensebrown and yellow, or any other color are considered fancy color diamonds
GIA color grading
D- colorless. Rare.
E,F -colorless. Traces of color could be detected. F has a very faint yellowish tint to it that may simply be seen when the diamond is viewed facedown.
G,H,I- near colorless. One can see the difference if compared with a higher quality diamond.
N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow
S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow
Cut
diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness created by the mixture of all white light reflections from the surface and the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light in to the colours from the visible spectrum, considered as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, whenever a diamond or light source is moved). If it has the perfect colour and clarity, in other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even.
Just how a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is what allows for the highest level of light to be returned out of the top of the diamond. A well cut diamond will appear larger as a result of light that is certainly being reflected from its top. Each time a diamond is poorly cut, its weight may be based at the bottom making the diamond seem smaller compared to what the Carat weight suggests.
Diamond Shapes
Round: Most favored of all the shapes. It’s created to produce the most sparkle. It is the most analyzed and researched cut. It is a timeless cut. About 75% of diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, meaning they have 58 facets. Cost more per carat than fancy shapes for 2 reasons: demand is high and features a small yield. A lot of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for instance; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% over a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A study from the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was released. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to maximize brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.
Princess Cut: Has excellent brilliance and sparkle. It is a more modern cut, created in the 1960s. They normally cost less because they enable a greater yield from the rough cut. They have a tendency to check smaller when viewed from the top in comparison to other shapes with the same carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Away from all fancy cuts, it’s most favored, particularly for engagement rings. Sensible choice for flexibility in dealing with almost any ring style, just like the round cut. Slightly lower price per carat than round cuts. Due to the four sided shape, much like a pyramid, of the princess cut, is similar to 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to be formed from the same rough stone with little of the rough stone being wasted. Because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size, though crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds. Some are rectangular, though traditionally square. More rectangular, lower price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less can look square to naked eye. If set with other diamonds, length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone. Should always be set with prongs therefore the four corners are protected. Probably to chip in the corners. Once close to the outer edge of the rough stone flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were. Once the stone is placed, the corners will likely be included in the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones with a table % in excess of depth %.
Oval: It had been developed in the 1960s. It is an elliptical version from the round cut. When viewed through the top, it tends to look greater than other cuts. Produced by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar fire and brilliance. Elongated shape creates an illusion of a larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear long and slimmer. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more appealing when diamond is with side stones. Usually have much more of a bowtie.
Marquise: Similar to the oval shape, but the ends are pointed. When viewed from the top, it is going to look greater than almost all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, to whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly experienced a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface area. Maximizes the perceived dimensions of a diamond. The elongated shape makes the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is very important. Two end points have to align with each other, and the left and right sides should mirror one another. Slight misalignment could cause an off kilter look in the setting. Excellent or great symmetry is strongly recommended. It needs to be set using the prongs protecting the 2 points. Like the princess cut, the points were once closest to the outer edge of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs which cover the points can make the flaws invisible. Points are also more prone to chipping.
Pear Shaped: It is actually pointed at one round and end at the other. Because of its resemblance to a teardrop, it is also known as a teardrop cut. This sort of cut is usually found in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Mixture of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Should have excellent or very good symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the lower and upper curves for both sides of the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. Rounded top need to look such as a semi circle. It really should not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in an attempt to add weight, cutters can provide diamond added girth near the point or top. It affords the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It ought to be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It also need to be impacted by the future setting. A narrow stone is great for dangling earings, along with a wider shaped stone is better to get a solitaire ring. Contains a degree of bowtie. Ought to be set with prong on the point., the purpose used to be closest to the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws are more likely to be located there. The prongs which cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Point is also prone to chipping.
Cushion Cut: also referred to as the pillow cut. It is within the shape of a square or rectangle. It is also referred to as old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for about 200 years. It had been the de facto diamond shape till the early twentieth century. It really is prized by antique diamond dealers due to the return or light within a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it posseses an enlarged culet. In the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. Because of him, there has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut. Standards for this cut vary greater than other shapes and private taste will mainly become the deciding factor where stone to pick. Less brilliant that round cuts, but have more fire. They have got three pavilion facet patterns. GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut, though ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered. They have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is really a length to width ration of 1.00. most favored is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.
Emerald Cut: It possesses a recagular shape with the edges cut to have steps, which work like mirrors. The mirrors are utilized to show the clarity of the diamond. Produced by the step cuts of pavilion along with its large, open table. Create a hall of mirrors effect, rather than the sparkle of the brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut a classy appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are simpler to see in this particular cut. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5. if prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut. It’s considered a square cut emerald by GIA.
Asscher Cut: it is similar to the emerald cut, but it is more octagonal. It’s corners and steps are deeper and larger. First, produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, at the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but made a comeback around 2002, as a result of modifications that increased brilliance. Much like square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, a higher crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will show up to get concentric squares while you look through the table. Because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal, even though has cropped corners. When mounted within a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape inside a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square towards the human eye alone.
Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Similar to princess cut, but not as square. First, developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot crown and pavilion. It produces a remarkable, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between cushion and princess cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or maybe more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more likely to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 can look square to human eye alone. Rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut, but want the brilliance of a round stone. It has cropped corners, though looks very similar to princess cut. Once set, they appear nearly identical because of prongs within the corners.
Heart Shaped: shaped like a heart. Modified brilliant cut. unmistakable and Unique symbol of love. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is vital. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which is involving the two lobes, needs to be sharp and distinct. The wings, as they curve to the stage, should have got a slight rounded shape. Ones under .50 carats will not be the ideal choice, becuas it’s harder to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it really is occur the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline in the shape after it’s set. The prongs should be placed one on each lobe, and something around the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants ought to be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.
Depth %: refers to distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed from your side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth through the width from the diamond. the low the depth %, the larger a diamond of a certain carat will show up.
table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.
diamond girdle: outer side of diamond where crown meets pavillion. Might be faceted- series of tiny polished sides taht go around the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes across the diamond, this type of girdle is currently uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished making it smooth. How the girdle is will not change the price or appearance of the diamond. it is explained by width. the width varies at different points in the diamond. and is identified as a range, from thinnest towards the thickest point. can impact diamond in three ways: The thickness of the girdle affects the relative position from the surrounding facets, and thus can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.
A thicker girdle will prove to add weight to some diamond, thereby increasing its cost. Since a thick girdle adds depth to your diamond but not width, a thick girdled diamond will never appear any larger when viewed through the top (e.g. when occur a bit of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. The effect on carat weight and price is minimal, but real.
An Exceptionally Thin girdle is more susceptible to chipping, and so needs to be avoided for diamonds that have to be placed in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and so are less susceptible to chipping round the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and Very Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners very likely to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.
Diamond culet: small area at the bottom in the pavilliion. it may be pointed or even a very small facet that sits parallel towards the table. Any diamond culet dimensions of Medium or smaller will be invisible towards the naked eye, and possess no negative impact on a diamond’s appearance. It may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.
polish: degree of smoothness of each and every element of a diamond; When a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects could be created by the polishing wheel as it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. Depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance. if diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer. Poor grade needs to be avoided for all diamonds.
Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets intersect and align. can include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending it away in the wrong angles, which cuts down on the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a minor decline in symmetry as a means of preventing a defect found in the rough stone from being retained as part of the finished diamond. it’s important in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and higher. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. features a significant influence on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish may be priced 10%-15% greater than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more concerning consumer’s perceived worth of “excellent” grades, compared to the actual influence on a diamond’s appearance. Because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eye, these diamonds should be avoided in all cases
Cut describes diamondsproportions and symmetry, and polish, not it’s shape.
When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off of the surface (as glare). In the 80% that enters, a portion will escape through the base of the diamond (where observer cannot appreciate it). A well proportioned diamond will have each facet properly placed and angled so as to maximize the amount of light that reflects back out of the crown (top) of the diamond, towards the eye from the observer. This reflected light is regarded as brilliance, fire and scintillation.
Look out for: Inclusion is seen towards the human eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds with no GIA certification
Comparison between Carat weight and Surface Area
When reviewing any diamond, it is important to remember that a rise in diameter may have a more substantial increase in the crown area which results in a perceived rise in overall size.
Two diamonds with similar carat and shape size could be regarded as having sizes because of the cut dimensions. A diamond with a deep cut has even more of it’s weight “hidden” inside the depth, which results in a lesser diameter compared to a well cut diamond.
A highly cut diamond that has a slightly lower carat weight when compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet has a larger diameter will appear larger in proportions.
A diamonds cut and carat figure out how big the stone can look. A highly cut diamond which is lighter than a poorly cut diamond will look like bigger diamond that is more beautiful compared to heavier one.
A carat is founded on weight. It will not reflect that actual size of a diamond. It needs to be considered with all the diameter in millimeters and its cut grade.
The weight of the poorly cut diamond can be hidden in the bottom of the diamond. That will make the diamond appear smaller in proportions.
Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds
Colored diamonds are incredibly expensive and rare. To supply the general public with all the desired colored diamonds, jewelers place the diamond by way of a process of high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both the radiation treatments are complete and also the heating process.
When repairing diamonds, the jeweler needs to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This can result in the shade of the diamond to alter as the process to incorporate color to a diamond is not really full proof.
When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.
When cutting a fancy diamond, instead of cutting the diamond to optimize sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize colour
Every colored diamond has become irradiated because this has been subjected to natural radiation.
Red-
Blue- color due to presence of boron
Yellow- color due to presence of nitrogen
Green- color brought on by natural radiation
Diamond Terms
Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone
Girdle - In which the top/crown and bottom/pavilion of a diamond meet. The region that is certainly usually grasped by prongs when deciding on up a diamond.
Crown - The very best part of the diamond that is certainly above the girdle
Pavilion - The bottom area of the diamond that is below the girdle.
Inclusions - Flaws found inside a diamond.
Blemishes - Flaws found on the surface of any diamond.
Diamond Fun Facts:
The birthstone of the month of April is a diamond
The hardest natural substance in the world is really a diamond
Diamonds are colorless when in their pure state
The most frequent colors of any diamond is yellow and brown
The rarest colors of the diamond are blue and red
1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces
India is the place where diamonds were first discovered
A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C
A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C
And invincibilit, in ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutcourage and strengthy
The term diamond is derived from the Greek word “adamas” meaning unbreakable
The Romans and Greeks believed diamonds were the tears in the splinters and gods of fallen stars
Diamonds can only be scratched by other diamonds
250 tons of ore must be processed and mined to produce a single one carat diamond
Diamonds are the most effective known, naturally occurring, thermal/heat conductor
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