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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are exactly the same!

Diamonds are often graded by 3 different experts. The inclusions and blemishes within the diamond are identical; however, the opinions of the experts in the grade in the diamond vary slightly.

The 4 C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) utilized to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, about the weight of a paper clip. Carat differs from Karat; one is for the weight of a diamond, the other to the purity of gold.

A higher carat means a rarer and bigger size diamond. The costs of diamonds vary by size; the greater the carat the higher the cost per Carat will be. The values of diamonds greatly increase on the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not really a great representation of the diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size by the surface area at the top since this is how we view a diamond when it is in its setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have totally different prices dependant upon the other 4 C’s of any diamond, Color and Clarity and Cut.

The measurement Carat originated from the carob seeds that were used to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For instance, a diamond weighing .Carats is going to be identified as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, such as some point o’ five carats to get a 1.05 CT diamond.

Deciding on the best Carat weight depends on many different factors. An important factor is how big “her” hand. Smaller “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

You will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well, because larger diamonds are rarer. Under one in a million rough stones mined are large enough to produce a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds of the same shape and carat weight can still appear different in proportions depending on the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond includes a greater proportion of its total weight “hidden” in the depth, producing a smaller diameter when compared to a well cut diamond. These differences are usually small, but noticeable. A well cut diamond may even have a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, but still use a larger diameter, which makes it appear larger in proportions.

Cutter of rough diamond must balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain the maximum amount of carat weight from the rough stone as you can). Lots of people are willing to pay more for larger diamonds that are fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. you can find sometimes pressure on the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is important for this reason.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight could also appear very different in proportions based on the model of the diamond. As an example, a 1 carat marquise is likely to appear larger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For every diamond, the chart shows the following:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown certainly are a very close approximation from the actual scale of a 1 carat excellent cut for each and every shape. Visually, the longer shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) have a tendency to appear larger to the eye than the round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements correspond to the shape shown above, and therefore are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The entire surface area (mm2). The region gives the true dimensions of the diamond face up (as it would appear when placed in a ring). For instance, whilst the oval diamond image appears bigger than the round image, the particular surface area is identical for that two shapes, meaning the real difference in size is one of perception, not reality. On the other hand, the oval not merely appears bigger than the princess cut, it really features a larger surface (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the main difference is not simply an illusion produced by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity refers back to the amount and size in the flaws (inclusions and blemishes) in a diamond. Clarity is thought to have the least influence on a diamond’s appearance through the 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades than those with increased imperfections.

Diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme pressure and heat deep within the earth, and because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws. These flaws are classified as “blemishes and “inclusions”.” Inclusion - found in the diamond. Inclusions includebubbles and cracks, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-found on the top of the diamond.

Inclusions

Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond by interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant. Some inclusions can impact the effectiveness of a diamond and in many cases ensure it is more likely the diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that can be found in diamonds. They can be discovered by themselves or even in clusters along with a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions create a hazy spot within the diamond known as the cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken off coming from a diamond using a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from your surface of the diamond up to the level where inclusion was within the diamond. These are an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks inside the diamond that resembles the shape of the feather. If a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond, the diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows.

Cleavage: A straight crack in the diamond without any feathering. If it is hit from the correct angle, a cleavage crack can split the diamond apart.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear across the girdle (Where the top/crown and bottom/pavilion from the stone meet). It can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond if there are too many girdle fringes/bearding.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines in a diamond that takes place by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are numerous blemishes that barely have any impact on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur whenever a diamond is polished and cut, while it is being worn, or they may be an all natural part of the diamond.

Scratch: An excellent surface line which can be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Develops when diamonds rub against the other person from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A number of nicks around the edges from the facet. Causes the facet to appear fuzzy.

Pit: Occur when a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints are to every and each unique person, a diamond plot would be to a diamond. The diamond plot is exactly what jewelers use to find out how many blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks over a diamond plot the greater quality the diamond is. If you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view, the diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as. Each of the inclusions and blemishes that you might or might not be able to see with the naked eye is shown around the diamond plot. When comparing the markings around the diamond plot to the diamond, some of the markings will likely be impossible to find out unless seen from the side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Rare.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Unusual.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions can not be seen with all the human eye alone and therefore are hard to see despite 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are often seen from your pavilion (bottom) from the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are usually seen from your crown (top) from the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Blemishes and Inclusions are visible with 10x magnification but almost impossible to detect using the naked eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and could be observed with the naked eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions that are hard to see with all the human eye alone

If a person knows what they are looking for, SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible to the human eye alone

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions that are so pronounced, many diamond dealers do not carry them.

Color

The color of a diamond will not change with time. The scale to grade a diamond’s lack of color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further down the scale you go, the better yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher in the range tend to be more valuable. The yellowish tint is actually created from the presence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without any hue or color

Hardly any diamond is ideal

Chemical impurities affect color

The intensity and hue can either remove or add value

Can come in number of colors, depending on structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intensebrown and yellows Alternatively, any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Rare.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color could be detected. F features a very faint yellowish tint to it that can just be seen when the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. One can see the difference if compared with a higher quality diamond.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness produced by the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and also the on the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light in to the colours of the visible spectrum, viewed as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, when a diamond or light source is moved). In other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even if it has the perfect colour and clarity.

The way in which a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is the thing that enables the highest amount of light to be returned out of the the top of diamond. A properly cut diamond can look larger due to the light that is certainly being reflected out from its top. Whenever a diamond is poorly cut, the weight might be based towards the bottom making the diamond seem smaller than just what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most favored of shapes. It’s made to make the most sparkle. It is the most analyzed and researched cut. This is a timeless cut. About 75% of all the diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which means they have 58 facets. Cost more per carat than fancy shapes for just two reasons: demand is high and features a minimal yield. A lot of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for instance; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) might cost 25-35% over a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A study in the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was released. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to increase brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent brilliance and sparkle. This is a more modern cut, created inside the 1960s. They normally cost less simply because they permit a larger yield through the rough cut. They have an inclination to appear smaller when viewed from your top when compared with other shapes with the exact same carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. Away from all fancy cuts, it’s most popular, especially for engagement rings. Good choice for flexibility in utilizing just about any ring style, like the round cut. Slightly discounted price per carat than round cuts. Due to the four sided shape, much like a pyramid, in the princess cut, is similar to one half of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed from the same rough stone with little of the rough stone being wasted. Because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size, though crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds. Traditionally square, but some are rectangular. More rectangular, lower price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will show up square to human eye alone. Length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone if set with other diamonds. Should always be set with prongs therefore the four corners are protected. Most likely to chip on the corners. Once close to the outer edge of the rough stone flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were. Once the stone is placed, the corners is going to be included in the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones having a table % greater than depth %.

Oval: It was developed in the 1960s. It is an elliptical version in the round cut. When viewed through the top, it has a tendency to look bigger than other cuts. Produced by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar brilliance and fire. Elongated shape creates an illusion of the larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear long and slimmer. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more appealing when diamond is to use side stones. Generally have much more of a bowtie.

Marquise: Similar to the oval shape, but the ends are pointed. When viewed through the top, it will look larger than virtually all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. based on the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly enjoyed a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown surface area. Maximizes the perceived dimensions of a diamond. The elongated shape makes the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is essential. Two end points must align with each other, and the right and left sides should mirror the other person. Slight misalignment may cause an off kilter try looking in the setting. Excellent or great symmetry is strongly recommended. It should be set with all the prongs protecting the two points. Just like the princess cut, the points were once nearest the outer side of the rough stone, so flaws will probably be located there. The prongs which cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Points are also prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It is pointed at one round and end at the other. Because of its resemblance to a teardrop, it is also known as a teardrop cut. This kind of cut is normally utilized in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Blend of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Must have excellent or great symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the upper and lower curves for both sides of the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, without any straight edges. Rounded top should consider looking such as a semi circle. It must not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in an effort to add weight, cutters can provide diamond added girth nearby the point or top. It affords the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It should be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It also need to be impacted by the future setting. A narrow stone is perfect for dangling earings, as well as a wider shaped stone is way better for a solitaire ring. Has a degree of bowtie. Should be set with prong on the point., the purpose used to be closest to the outer side of the rough stone, so flaws are more inclined to be located there. The prongs that cover the points is likely to make the flaws invisible. Point can also be very likely to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also known as the pillow cut. It is incorporated in the shape of a square or rectangle. Additionally it is referred to as old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for around 200 years. It was the de facto diamond shape up until the early twentieth century. It is actually prized by antique diamond dealers due to the return or light within a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it has an enlarged culet. In the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. Because of him, there has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut. Standards for this cut vary greater than other shapes and personal taste will mainly function as the deciding factor which stone to choose. Have more fire, even though less brilliant that round cuts. They may have three pavilion facet patterns. GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut, though ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered. These people have a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is really a length to width ration of 1.00. most popular is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It has a recagular shape with the edges cut to possess steps, which work like mirrors. The mirrors are employed to show the clarity of the diamond. Produced by the step cuts of pavilion along with its large, open table. Generate a hall of mirrors effect, as opposed to the sparkle of a brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut a stylish appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are simpler to see in this cut. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5. if prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut. It’s considered a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: It is more octagonal, though it is similar to the emerald cut. It’s steps and corners are larger and deeper. First, produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, during the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but produced a comeback around 2002, as a result of modifications that increased brilliance. Comparable to square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, a higher crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher can look to possess concentric squares as you examine the table. Has cropped corners, but because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal. When mounted in a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape in a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square for the human eye.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Not as square, even though similar to princess cut. First, developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot pavilion and crown. It generates a remarkable, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between princess and cushion cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more prone to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 can look square to human eye alone. Want the brilliance of a round stone, though rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut. Looks very similar to princess cut, but it has cropped corners. Once set, they search nearly identical because of prongs within the corners.

Heart Shaped: in the shape of a heart. Modified brilliant cut. unmistakable and Unique symbol of affection. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is essential. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, that is between the two lobes, should be sharp and distinct. The wings, as they curve to the level, should have a very slight rounded shape. Ones less than .50 carats may not be a great choice, becuas it’s harder to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is occur the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline from the shape after it’s set. The prongs needs to be placed one on each lobe, and something in the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants ought to be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: describes distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed through the side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth by the width from the diamond. the lower the depth %, the bigger a diamond of any certain carat will appear.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer fringe of diamond where crown meets pavillion. Could be faceted- combination of tiny polished sides taht go around the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes round the diamond, this type of girdle is now uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle which has been polished to really make it smooth. How the girdle is will not change the price or appearance of the diamond. it really is explained by width. the width varies at different points of the diamond. and it is identified as a range, from thinnest towards the thickest point. can impact diamond in 3 ways: The thickness in the girdle affects the relative position of the surrounding facets, therefore can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.

A thicker girdle will prove to add weight to a diamond, thereby increasing its price. Since a thick girdle adds depth to your diamond however, not width, a thick girdled diamond is not going to appear any larger when viewed from the top (e.g. when occur a piece of jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. The effect on carat weight and price is minimal, but real.

An Incredibly Thin girdle is much more vunerable to chipping, and so ought to be avoided for diamonds that are to be set in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and are therefore less prone to chipping across the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and extremely Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, as this shape already has sharp corners very likely to chipping. If you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle, consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners.

Diamond culet: small area in the bottom in the pavilliion. it may be pointed or even a tiny facet that sits parallel for the table. Any diamond culet size of Medium or smaller is going to be invisible for the human eye, and also have no negative influence on a diamond’s appearance. It may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion. Alternatively, create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: level of smoothness of each and every element of a diamond; When a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects might be developed by the polishing wheel since it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. Depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance. if diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer. Poor grade needs to be avoided for those diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets intersect and align. can include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending them back at the wrong angles, which decreases the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a minor decline in symmetry as a method of preventing a defect present in the rough stone from being retained as part of the finished diamond. it’s crucial in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and higher. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. features a significant impact on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish may be priced 10%-15% more than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more concerning consumer’s perceived value of “excellent” grades, than the actual effect on a diamond’s appearance. These diamonds should be avoided in all case, because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eyes

Cut describes diamondsproportions and symmetry, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off of the surface (as glare). From the 80% that enters, a portion will escape through the bottom of the diamond (in which the observer cannot appreciate it). A highly proportioned diamond will have each facet properly placed and angled in order to maximize the amount of light that reflects back out of the crown (top) of the diamond, to the eye of the observer. This reflected light is regarded as fire, brilliance and scintillation.

Watch out for: Inclusion is visible to the human eye alone; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds with no GIA certification

Comparison between Carat weight and Surface Area

When reviewing any diamond, it is important to remember that a rise in diameter may have a bigger rise in the crown surface which results in a perceived increase in overall size.

Two diamonds with similar shape and carat size could be regarded as having different sizes as a result of cut dimensions. A diamond with a deep cut has even more of it’s weight “hidden” in the depth, which leads to a smaller diameter compared to a well cut diamond.

A highly cut diamond that has a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, yet has a larger diameter can look larger in size.

A diamonds cut and carat determine how big the stone can look. A highly cut diamond that is lighter compared to a poorly cut diamond will seem to be bigger diamond that is more beautiful compared to the heavier one.

A carat is based on weight. It will not reflect that actual dimensions of a diamond. It should be considered using the diameter in millimeters and its cut grade.

The load of any poorly cut diamond could be hidden inside the lower diamond. That can make the diamond appear smaller in proportions.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are incredibly rare and expensive. To provide people with all the desired colored diamonds, jewelers place the diamond through a process of high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after both radiation remedies are complete as well as the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler has to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This could result in the colour of the diamond to alter because the process to include color to your diamond is not really full proof.

When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.

When cutting an expensive diamond, rather than cutting the diamond to maximize sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the color

Every colored diamond has become irradiated because it really has been in contact with natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color brought on by presence of boron

Yellow- color caused by presence of nitrogen

Green- color brought on by natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat top of a cut stone

Girdle - In which the top/crown and bottom/pavilion of any diamond meet. The region that is usually grasped by prongs when deciding on up a diamond.

Crown - The top area of the diamond that is higher than the girdle

Pavilion - The base part of the diamond which is below the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found within a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws found on the surface of the diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone of the month of April is really a diamond

The most difficult natural substance in the world is actually a diamond

Diamonds are colorless while in their pure state

The most common colors of any diamond is brown and yellow

The rarest colors of any diamond are red and blue

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is where diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

In ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutstrength and courage, and invincibility

The word diamond comes from the Greek word “adamas” which suggests unbreakable

The Greeks and Romans believed diamonds were the tears from the splinters and gods of fallen stars

Diamonds can only be scratched by other diamonds

250 a lot of ore has to be mined and processed to make a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the most useful known, naturally occurring, thermal/heat conductor

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