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Diamonds

No 2 diamonds are precisely the same!

Diamonds are often graded by 3 different experts. The inclusions and blemishes in the diamond are identical; however, the opinions in the experts in the grade in the diamond vary slightly.

The Four C’s

Gold Buyer WellingtonDiamond and diamond jewelry buyers

Carat Weight

A unit of weight (CT) used to measure diamonds. Carat equals .2 grams or 200 miligrams, about the weight of the paper clip. Carat is different from Karat; one is for that weight of a diamond, another to the purity of gold.

An increased carat means a rarer and bigger size diamond. The costs of diamonds vary by size; the higher the carat the higher the cost per Carat is going to be. The prices of diamonds greatly increase in the full and half Carat weight. Carat weight is not really an excellent representation of a diamond’s size. People usually judge diamond size by the area at the top since this is how you view a diamond when it is in its setting.

Comparing 2 diamonds of equal Carat can have completely different prices depending on the other 4 C’s of the Color, Clarity and diamond and Cut.

The measurement Carat came from the carob seeds that were utilized to balance scales.

A diamond below one Carat is described using “points.” For example, a diamond weighing .Carats is going to be identified as a “fifty pointer.” Any diamond weighing over 1 Carat is described using decimals, including some point o’ five carats to get a 1.05 CT diamond.

Choosing the right Carat weight depends on many different factors. A key point is the size of “her” hand. Smaller “her” finger is, the greater the diamond looks.

You will typically not only pay more in total, but price per carat as well, because larger diamonds are rarer. Less than one in 1 million rough stones mined are big enough to make a finished 1 carat diamond.

Two diamonds of the same carat and shape weight might still appear different in size in accordance with the cut proportions. A deeply cut diamond features a greater proportion of their total weight “hidden” inside the depth, causing a smaller diameter compared to a well cut diamond. Noticeable, even though these differences are usually small. A well cut diamond may also have a slightly lower carat weight than a deeply cut diamond, but still have a larger diameter, making it appear larger in dimensions.

Cutter of rough diamond needs to balance optimal cut and maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain the maximum amount of carat weight from your rough stone as possible). So many people are ready to pay more for larger diamonds which can be fair-cut than smaller well cut diamonds. you will find sometimes pressure on the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. Cut is very important for this reason.

Two diamonds of equal carat weight could also appear completely different in proportions based on the form of the diamond. For example, a 1 carat marquise has a tendency to appear larger than a 1 carat round. The chart below illustrates why. For each and every diamond, the chart shows these:

Approximate size. The diamond images shown really are a very close approximation in the actual dimensions of a 1 carat excellent cut for each shape. Visually, the more shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) tend to appear larger towards the eye compared to the round and square shapes.

Measurements (Length x Width). The measurements match the shape shown above, and are typical for excellent cut diamonds of 1 carat weight.

Crown Area - The entire surface (mm2). The area affords the true dimensions of the diamond face up (because it would appear when placed in a ring). As an example, while the oval diamond image appears bigger than the round image, the particular surface is the same for that two shapes, meaning the difference in size is among perception, not reality. In comparison, the oval not just appears larger than the princess cut, it actually includes a larger surface area (approximately 10% larger in this particular example), meaning the real difference will not be simply an illusion developed by the elongated shape.

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Clarity

Clarity means the amount and size from the flaws (blemishes and inclusions) within a diamond. Clarity is believed to achieve the least effect on a diamond’s appearance from the 4 C’s.

Diamonds with less imperfections have higher grades compared to those with additional imperfections.

And because of this process, almost every diamond has flaws, diamonds are formed when carbon is exposed to extreme heat and pressure deep within the earth. These flaws are classified as “blemishes and “inclusions”.” Inclusion - found within the diamond. Inclusions includecracks and bubbles, and non-diamond minerals. Blemishes-located on the top of the diamond.

Inclusions

Inclusions affect the clarity of a diamond by interfering with the passing light making the stone less brilliant. Some inclusions can affect the potency of a diamond and perhaps ensure it is very likely the diamond will shatter.

Pinpoint Inclusions: Small light or dark crystals that show up in diamonds. They may be found by themselves or perhaps in clusters along with a large cluster of pinpoint inclusions create a hazy spot in the diamond known as the cloud.

Laser Lines: Laser lines occur when an inclusion is taken off from the diamond utilizing a laser. They leave a vapor like trail from your top of the diamond up to the point where the inclusion was inside the diamond. They are an unnatural inclusion.

Feathers: Cracks inside the diamond that resembles the design of a feather. If a feather crack touches the surface of a diamond, the diamond is more prone to cracking due to the top of the diamond receiving more accidental blows.

Cleavage: A straight crack inside the diamond without feathering. If it is hit from the correct angle, a cleavage crack can split the diamond apart.

Girdle Fringes/Bearding: Hair like lines that appear round the girdle (Where the top/bottom and crown/pavilion in the stone meet). If there are too many girdle fringes/bearding, it can be polished away or removed by re-cutting the diamond.

Grain Lines/Growth Lines: Lines inside a diamond that occurs by irregular crystallization.

Blemishes

There are lots of blemishes that barely have effect on the diamond’s appearance. Blemishes occur when a diamond is cut and polished, though it may be being worn, or they may be an all natural portion of the diamond.

Scratch: A fine surface line which can be removed by polishing.

Abrasion: Takes place when diamonds rub against one another from people’s mishandling of jewelry. A series of nicks on the edges from the facet. Causes the facet to show up fuzzy.

Pit: Occur each time a pinpoint inclusion

Diamond Plot

What fingerprints are going to every and each unique person, a diamond plot is always to a diamond. The diamond plot is what jewelers use to see the number of blemishes, and inclusions a diamond has. The less marks on the diamond plot the better quality the diamond is. If you were hovering over the top face, a top-down view, the diamond plot gives you a picture of the diamond as. All of the inclusions and blemishes that you may or may not have the ability to see with all the human eye alone is shown in the diamond plot. When you compare the markings around the diamond plot towards the diamond, a number of the markings will likely be impossible to see unless seen through the side angle.

Diamond Clarity Chart

FL -Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes. Rare.

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions, only blemishes. Very rare.

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions can not be seen with the human eye and they are challenging to see despite having 10x magnification.

VVS1 - Inclusions are usually seen from your pavilion (bottom) from the diamond.

VVS2 - Inclusions are often seen from your crown (top) from the diamond.

VS1, VS2 -Very Slightly Included: Blemishes and Inclusions are visible with 10x magnification but nearly impossible to detect with the human eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions and blemishes are visible with 10x magnification and could be observed with the human eye.

SI1- lowest diamond grade with inclusions that are tough to see with the naked eye

If a person knows what they are looking for, SI2- Inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.

I1- Included: Inclusions are visible to the naked eye

I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds contain inclusions which can be so pronounced, many diamond dealers tend not to carry them.

Color

The colour of any diamond does NOT change as time passes. The scale to grade a diamond’s lack of color goes from D-Z with D being the clearest. The further along the scale you choose to go, the more yellowish tint the diamond has. Diamonds higher inside the range are definitely more valuable. The yellowish tint is created from the presence of nitrogen.

Chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is transparent without any hue or color

Very little diamond is ideal

Chemical impurities affect color

The hue and intensity can either remove or add value

Are available in selection of colors, depending on structural defects, which cause coloration

Diamonds that are intensebrown and yellows Alternatively, any other color are considered fancy color diamonds

GIA color grading

D- colorless. Unusual.

E,F -colorless. Traces of color can be detected. F has a very faint yellowish tint to it that will only be seen when the diamond is viewed facedown.

G,H,I- near colorless. If compared with a higher quality diamond, one can see the difference.

N,O,P,Q,R very light yellow

S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z are light yellow

Cut

diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness created by a combination of all white light reflections from the surface as well as the on the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light in to the colours of the visible spectrum, considered as flashes of colour), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, each time a diamond or light source is moved). In other words, a diamond with a poor cut will appear dull, even if it has the perfect colour and clarity.

The way in which a diamond is cut determines its cut grade. The cut is what provides for the highest quantity of light to be returned out from the the surface of the diamond. A properly cut diamond will appear larger because of the light that is certainly being reflected out of its top. Whenever a diamond is poorly cut, its weight may be based at the bottom making the diamond seem smaller compared to just what the Carat weight suggests.

Diamond Shapes

Round: Most widely used of all shapes. It’s created to produce the most sparkle. It will be the most researched and analyzed cut. This is a timeless cut. About 75% of all diamonds sold are round. Most round diamonds are brilliant cut, which means they have got 58 facets. Cost more per carat than fancy shapes for just two reasons: demand is high and contains a low yield. A lot of the rough stone is lost when cutting it. “A typical round diamond (for example; a 1.00 carat, F-color, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) might cost 25-35% more than a similar fancy shape.” In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: Research from the reflecton and refraction of light in diamond” was launched. It caused the round diamond torise in popularity. The thesis described ideal proportions of round cut diamonds to maximize brilliance, (light return) and dispersion (fire). His specifications were 53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.5 crown angle, visible cutlet.

Princess Cut: Has excellent brilliance and sparkle. It is a more modern cut, created within the 1960s. They normally cost less simply because they enable a better yield from your rough cut. They have an inclination to check smaller when viewed from your top in comparison to other shapes with the same carat. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. From all fancy cuts, it’s most favored, especially for engagement rings. Good choice for flexibility in dealing with nearly every ring style, such as the round cut. Slightly discounted price per carat than round cuts. Because of the four sided shape, comparable to a pyramid, from the princess cut, is similar to 50 % of the octahedron rough stone. Allows two diamonds to become formed through the same rough stone with little in the rough stone being wasted. Because corner to corner measurement is 15% greater, it creates illusion of greater size, though crown surface area is 10% less than same weight round diamonds. Some are rectangular, though traditionally square. More rectangular, discounted price. Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to human eye alone. If set with other diamonds, length to width of 1.05-1.08 will look square because side diamonds make illusion of greater width of center stone. Should always be set with prongs and so the four corners are protected. More than likely to chip on the corners. Flaws are more likely to be by the corners because they were once close to the outer edge of the rough stone. Once the stone is defined, the corners will likely be included in the prongs, making the flaws nearly invisible. Avoid stones having a table % more than depth %.

Oval: It had been created in the 1960s. It is really an elliptical version from the round cut. When viewed from your top, it has a tendency to look greater than other cuts. Developed by Lazare Kaplan. Modified brilliant cut. Round and oval contains similar brilliance and fire. Elongated shape creates an illusion of any larger diamond. Slender shape makes finger appear slimmer and long. Classic oval cut is 1.35-1.5 length to width ratio. Slightly thinner cut may look more attractive when diamond is to use side stones. Generally have more of a bowtie.

Marquise: The ends are pointed, although similar to the oval shape. When viewed from your top, it is going to look larger than almost all other cuts. Football shaped. Modified brilliant cut. produced from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly experienced a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Largest crown area. Maximizes the perceived size of a diamond. The elongated shape makes the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer. Classic marquise cut length to width ratio is 1.75-2.15. Symmetry is essential. Two end points must align with each other, as well as the right and left sides should mirror one another. Slight misalignment may cause an off kilter look in the setting. Excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended. It should be set using the prongs protecting the two points. Such as the princess cut, the points were once nearest the outer fringe of the rough stone, so flaws will probably be located there. The prongs that cover the points can make the flaws invisible. Points can also be prone to chipping.

Pear Shaped: It really is pointed at one round and end in the other. It is also known as a teardrop cut, because of its resemblance to a teardrop. This sort of cut is usually found in pendants and earrings. Modified brilliant cut. Mixture of round and marquise shape. Always worn with narrow end pointing toward hand of wearer. Makes fingers appear longer and slimmer. Needs to have excellent or very good symmetry. Pont should line up with apex of rounded end. Shoulder and wings, the lower and upper curves on sides in the diamond, should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. Rounded top should look such as a semi circle. It really should not be narrow or squat. Sometimes, in order to add weight, cutters can provide diamond added girth nearby the point or top. It affords the diamond a squared off or squatty look. It should be avoided. Classic length to width ratio is 1.4-1.7. It ought to be afflicted with the future setting. A narrow stone is ideal for dangling earings, and a wider shaped stone is way better to get a solitaire ring. Contains a level of bowtie. Needs to be set with prong on the point., the point was once nearest the outer side of the rough stone, so flaws are more inclined to be located there. The prongs that cover the points will make the flaws invisible. Point is additionally more prone to chipping.

Cushion Cut: also referred to as the pillow cut. It is within the shape of a square or rectangle. It is additionally called the old mine cut. It’s a square cut with rounded corners. Has existed for about 200 years. It was the de facto diamond shape till the early twentieth century. It is actually prized by antique diamond dealers because of the return or light inside a chunkier pattern than today’s modern cuts. In addition, it posseses an enlarged culet. Within the 1920’s Marcel Tolkowsky researched different cuts to refine the cushion cut. There has been a resurgence of popularity of this particular cut, because of him. Standards with this cut vary a lot more than other shapes and private taste will mainly be the deciding factor on which stone to pick. Have more fire, even though less brilliant that round cuts. They have got three pavilion facet patterns. Ones with extra row fo facets on the pavilion are considered, but GIA, as a “modified” cushion cut. There is a crushed ice or needle like facet pattern. Classic cut is really a length to width ration of 1.00. most widely used is 1.1-1.2 length to width ratio.

Emerald Cut: It has a recagular shape with the edges cut to get steps, which act like mirrors. The mirrors are utilized to show the clarity from the diamond. Produced by the step cuts of pavilion and its large, open table. Produce a hall of mirrors effect, rather than the sparkle of the brilliant, with interplay of light and dark planes. Long lines and dramatic flashes give this cut an elegant appeal, the cut was originally for cutting emeralds. Inclusions are easier to see within this cut. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.5. if prefer square emerald, consider the asscher cut. It’s defined as a square cut emerald by GIA.

Asscher Cut: it is similar to the emerald cut, but it is more octagonal. It’s corners and steps are deeper and larger. First, produced in 1902 by Asscer Brothers of Holland. They cut the world’s largest rough stone, during the time, the Cullinan at 3106 carats. Peaked in popularity in 1920’s but made a comeback around 2002, due to the modifications that increased brilliance. Much like square emerald cut. Usually has larger step facets, an increased crown, as well as a smaller table. Produces more brilliance than emerald cut. Well cut asscher will show up to get concentric squares as you examine the table. Has cropped corners, but because the cut is square, the cropped corners make it look somewhat octagonal. When mounted in a four prong setting, it maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette. Classic cut has length to width ratio of 1.00. a ratio of 1.05 or less will seem square towards the human eye.

Radiant Cut: Corners are angled and rectangular. Similar to princess cut, but not as square. First developed In the 1970s. first square cut to have complete brilliant cut facet pattern applied ot pavilion and crown. It generates a vibrant, lively square diamond. Popular in 1980’s. cropped corners fo square is nice middle ground between cushion and princess cut. Looks good when set with round or square cornered diamonds. In longer, or more rectangle, cuts, a bow tie effect is more prone to appear. A ratio of 1.-1.05 can look square to human eye. Want the brilliance of a round stone, though rectangular cut is ideal for those who like emerald cut. It has cropped corners, though looks very similar to princess cut. Once set, they appear nearly identical due to prongs within the corners.

Heart Shaped: the same shape as a heart. Modified brilliant cut. unmistakable and Unique symbol of affection. Popular in solitaire pendants and rings. Symmetry is essential. It’s critical that two halves of heart are identical. Cleft, which is in between the two lobes, needs to be sharp and distinct. The wings, because they curve to the stage, should have a very slight rounded shape. Ones less than .50 carats may not be the ideal choice, becuas it’s more difficult to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after it is set in the prongs. for smaller hearts, a bezel or three pong setting will preserve the outline in the shape after it’s set. The prongs should be placed one on each lobe, and something on the point. It should be chosen based off of personal preference, even though come in variety of silhouets, from fat to narrow. Classic length to width ratio is 1.00. Ones for pendants ought to be more narrow, 1.05-1.15 length to width ratio. Ones in solitaire rings should me more wide, .85-1.00.

Depth %: describes distance between culet and table when diamond is viewed through the side. expressed in millimeters. it’s calculated by dividing the depth through the width of the diamond. the lower the depth %, the greater a diamond of the certain carat will appear.

table %: calculated by dividing with of table facet by width of diamond.

diamond girdle: outer edge of diamond where crown meets pavillion. Might be faceted- combination of tiny polished sides taht go round the diamond, bruted- single continuous unpolished surface that goes round the diamond, this type of girdle is currently uncommon, or polished- a bruted girdle that has been polished making it smooth. The way the girdle is does not affect the price or appearance from the diamond. it is described by width. the width varies at different points from the diamond. and is also described as a range, from thinnest for the thickest point. can impact diamond in three ways: The thickness from the girdle affects the relative position in the surrounding facets, therefore can impact cut. Because girdle width is already factored into the diamond’s overall cut grade, a diamond graded as well cut will produce superior brilliance, fire, and scintillation, even if the girdle itself is not in the ideal Thin-Slightly Thick range of width.

A thicker girdle will prove to add weight to your diamond, thereby increasing its cost. Since a thick girdle adds depth to your diamond although not width, a thick girdled diamond is not going to appear any larger when viewed through the top (e.g. when set in some jewelry), despite the additional carat weight. Real, even though the effect on carat weight and price is minimal.

An Exceptionally Thin girdle is much more vunerable to chipping, and for that reason ought to be avoided for diamonds that are to be set in a ring. Earrings or pendants are less exposed to rough contact and tend to be less susceptible to chipping across the girdle. Avoid both Extremely Thin and extremely Thin girdles in princess cut diamonds, since this shape already has sharp corners very likely to chipping. Consider setting it in a style that covers and protects the corners if you do purchase a princess cut diamond with a Very Thin girdle.

Diamond culet: small area at the bottom in the pavilliion. it may be pointed or even a very small facet that sits parallel to the table. Any diamond culet size of Medium or smaller is going to be invisible to the human eye alone, and have no negative influence on a diamond’s appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond’s brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

polish: level of smoothness of each facet of a diamond; Whenever a diamond is polished and cut, microscopic surface defects may be developed by the polishing wheel because it drags tiny dislodged crystals across the diamond’s surface. If diamonds have clarity grade of i1 or lower, polish grade of fair is acceptable. therese diamons have internal inclusions that are visible to naked eye so the polish becomes less relevant. diamonds less than .75 carats, a plish grade of fair or better will not affect appearance to an untrained observer, depending on the severity, these defects may disrupt light patterns as the light rays enter and exit the diamond. polish grade of excellent to good, any polishing defects are not visible to naked eye and have no impact on overall appearance.. Poor grade ought to be avoided for all diamonds.

Diamond symmetry: how precisely the facets intersect and align. can include extra or misshapen facets, off center culets and tables, and wavy girdles. poor symmetry may misdirect light sending them back in the wrong angles, which decreases the brilliance. Often, a diamond cutter will purposefully allow a small decline in symmetry as a method of preventing a defect present in the rough stone from being retained within the finished diamond. it’s essential in diamonds of vvs2 clarity and higher. the subtle defects would compromise the flawless appearance. has a significant effect on price; a diamond with Excellent Symmetry and polish might be priced 10%-15% more than a diamond with Good Symmetry and Polish. This premium has more concerning consumer’s perceived value of “excellent” grades, compared to the actual impact on a diamond’s appearance. Because diamonds with Poor symmetry have defects visible to the naked eye, these diamonds should be avoided in all cases

Cut identifies diamondsproportions and symmetry, and polish, not it’s shape.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off the surface (as glare). In the 80% that enters, a portion will escape through the foot of the diamond (where observer cannot appreciate it). A properly proportioned diamond will have each facet properly placed and angled to be able to maximize the volume of light that reflects back out from the crown (top) from the diamond, to the eye of the observer. This reflected light is regarded as brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Be aware of: Inclusion is seen to the human eye; extremely thick girdle; fair or poor symmetry; strong fluorescence; diamonds without a GIA certification

Comparison between Carat Surface and weight Area

When reviewing any diamond, you should understand that an increase in diameter will have a larger rise in the crown surface which results in a perceived increase in overall size.

Two diamonds with similar carat and shape size may be perceived as having different sizes because of the cut dimensions. A diamond having a deep cut has even more of it’s weight “hidden” within the depth, which results in a lesser diameter when compared to a well cut diamond.

A highly cut diamond that has a slightly lower carat weight compared to a deeply cut diamond, yet features a larger diameter will show up larger in proportions.

A diamonds cut and carat figure out how big the stone will appear. A well cut diamond that is certainly lighter than a poorly cut diamond will seem to be bigger diamond which is more beautiful compared to the heavier one.

A carat is based on weight. It does not reflect that actual scale of a diamond. It should be considered with all the diameter in millimeters as well as its cut grade.

The weight of any poorly cut diamond can be hidden in the base of the diamond. That can make the diamond appear smaller in dimensions.

Irradiated/Fancy Diamonds

Colored diamonds are very rare and expensive. To offer the public using the desired colored diamonds, jewelers place the diamond by way of a procedure for high radiation treatments. The diamond then gets its color after the radiation remedies are complete and also the heating process.

When repairing diamonds, the jeweler has to re-expose the diamond to intense heat. This may cause the shade of the diamond to alter as the process to add color to some diamond is not full proof.

When evaluating fancy diamonds, the clarity section is less important because the inclusions tend to be masked by the color of the diamond.

When cutting a fancy diamond, instead of cutting the diamond to increase sparkle, the diamond is cut in whichever way will emphasize the colour

Every colored diamond has become irradiated because it really has been subjected to natural radiation.

Red-

Blue- color due to presence of boron

Yellow- color caused by presence of nitrogen

Green- color due to natural radiation

Diamond Terms

Table/Face - The flat surface of a cut stone

Girdle - Where the top/bottom and crown/pavilion of a diamond meet. The location which is usually grasped by prongs when choosing up a diamond.

Crown - The very best part of the diamond that is above the girdle

Pavilion - The bottom part of the diamond that is certainly underneath the girdle.

Inclusions - Flaws found inside a diamond.

Blemishes - Flaws found on the surface of any diamond.

Diamond Fun Facts:

The birthstone from the month of April is actually a diamond

The toughest natural substance on the planet is a diamond

Diamonds are colorless if in their pure state

The most common colors of the diamond is brown and yellow

The rarest colors of any diamond are blue and red

1 Carat - .2 grams or .007 ounces

India is the place where diamonds were first discovered

A diamonds melting point is 3820K or 6420F / 3547C

A diamonds boiling point is 5100K or 8720F / 4827C

And invincibilit, in ancient times diamonds were worn because they were believed to bring aboutcourage and strengthy

The word diamond hails from the Greek word “adamas” which suggests unbreakable

The Romans and Greeks believed diamonds were the tears in the splinters and gods of fallen stars

Diamonds can only be scratched by other diamonds

250 tons of ore should be mined and processed to generate a single one carat diamond

Diamonds are the best known, naturally occurring, thermal/heat conductor

Lake Worth diamond buyers